背景介绍：
国外汉堡在华几十年，抵不过塔斯汀几年狂飙？二十世纪80、90年代，肯德基、麦当劳先后入驻中国，开启了西式快餐品牌的东方之路。对于很多80后90后来说，肯德基麦当劳陪伴了他们的成长，小时候，汉堡薯条可乐是一份奖励和礼物，特别的点餐形式和就餐环境以及定期的小礼物、生日会活动更是格外吸引人。如今，忽然爆火的塔斯汀为国内汉堡市场注入新鲜血液的同时，也给来这些老品牌一个措手不及。那么，“中国汉堡”塔斯汀究竟是如何实现逆袭的？
How China is
making the burger its own
中国汉堡正在崛起
Duck, pork,
tofu—what will it be?
鸭肉、猪肉、豆腐——你会选什么？
At first glance, the burger appears like any other. But
on closer inspection, something is different. Pressed between the buns is not a
patty of
minced
beef, but
morsels
of roasted duck. The buns themselves are
wrinkled and slightly charred.
乍一看，这款汉堡与其他汉堡并无两样。但仔细一瞧，却有所不同。夹在面包里的不是牛肉饼，而是烤鸭肉。面包本身也是皱巴巴的，表面略带焦痕。
They are hand-rolled and made using traditional pastry-making techniques, says Tastien, the fast-food chain serving up this meal. If duck isn’t your thing, other options include fish-fragrant
shredded
pork and mapo tofu. Though not technically a hamburger, Tastien’s ads declare, “The Chinese hamburger is here!”
据快餐连锁店塔斯汀表示，这些面包都是手工制作的，采用了传统的面点制作工艺。如果你不喜欢鸭肉，还可以选择鱼香肉丝和麻婆豆腐。尽管从严格意义上讲，这并非汉堡，但塔斯汀的广告却宣称：“中国汉堡来了！”
It appears to be popular. Last year Tastien added
nearly 3,500 stores, for a total of around 6,700 in China. That is more than
McDonald’s, which has 6,000, according to GeoHey, a Chinese analytics firm. KFC
(11,000) and local brand Wallace (18,000) still lead the fast-food industry.
这款汉堡似乎颇受欢迎。去年塔斯汀新增门店近3500家，使其在中国的门店总数达到约6700家。据中国分析公司极海称，这一数字超过了麦当劳，后者在中国拥有6000家门店。肯德基（11000家）和本土品牌华莱士（18000家）仍领跑快餐行业。
McDonald’s and KFC brought burgers to China. When the
first KFC opened in Beijing in 1987, customers queued up to get a taste. Back
then the fast-food chains targeted well-off Chinese. But as incomes rose, such
meals grew more affordable. Still, a big part of Tastien’s success is its
prices, which are well below those of Western fast-food chains.
麦当劳和肯德基将汉堡带到了中国。1987年，当北京第一家肯德基开业时，顾客们纷纷排队品尝。当时，这些快餐连锁店的目标受众是经济条件较好的中国人。但随着收入的提高，这类快餐变得越来越亲民。然而，塔斯汀成功的一大原因还是其价格远低于西方快餐连锁店。
Founded in 2012, Tastien started out making pizzas. It
began selling burgers in 2017. Two years later it claimed to be the creator of
the Chinese hamburger, though it was hardly the first to offer such a thing.
塔斯汀成立于2012年，起初是做披萨的。2017年开始销售汉堡。两年后，塔斯汀宣称自己是中国汉堡的创造者，尽管它并非首家推出此类产品的公司。
Still, the
patriotic
marketing has gone down well. Tastien received a 120m yuan ($19m) investment from Chinese venture-capital firms in 2021. Until recently, it has focused on smaller cities where it faces less competition from Western chains.
不过，这种爱国情怀的营销方式确实奏效了。2021年，塔斯汀获得了中国风险投资公司1.2亿元人民币（约合1900万美元）的投资。直到最近，塔斯汀一直将重点放在较小的城市，因为在这些地方，它面临的西方连锁店的竞争较小。
Now it is taking on rivals in big cities like Guangzhou
and Shanghai. And the competition is growing. Local fast-food chains such as
Running Panda and Chuzheng have also attracted sizeable investments. Many of
these smaller chains offer burgers similar to Tastien’s and have adopted
marketing strategies that emphasise their Chinese origins.
如今，塔斯汀正在广州和上海等大城市与竞争对手展开较量。竞争日益激烈。本土快餐连锁店（如熊猫快餐和厨正）也吸引了大量投资。许多较小的连锁店都推出了与塔斯汀类似的汉堡，并采用了强调其中国血统的营销策略。
Chinese burgers are part of a wider trend, called
xinzhongshi (new Chinese style), which sees companies infusing elements from
traditional Chinese culture into their products and branding.
中国汉堡是“新中式”这一更广泛趋势的一部分，该趋势指的是企业将中国传统文化的元素融入其产品和品牌中。
The label “Chinese style” has been attached to everything from coffee to fried chicken. There is a political tinge to the fad. Companies are capitalising on the nationalist tendencies of young people.
从咖啡到炸鸡，各种产品都被贴上了“中式”的标签。这一潮流带有一定的政治色彩。企业正在利用年轻人的民族主义倾向。
This type of marketing is no guarantee of success.
Tea-houses in China date back hundreds of years, but some that have opened
recently under the “Chinese style” banner are still struggling.
这种营销方式并不能保证成功。中国的茶馆已有数百年的历史，但最近一些以“中式”为招牌的茶馆仍在苦苦挣扎。
So too are some vendors of steamed buns, which originated in China long ago. It is perhaps less of a surprise that Chinese-style ice cream has not taken off.
同样，一些卖馒头（馒头起源于古代中国）的商家也同样面临窘境。中式冰淇淋没有火起来也就不足为奇了。
The label can often seem like a
gimmick
, attached to products that have little to do with traditional culture. One might say the same about burgers. Good thing Tastien’s are cheap.
这个标签往往看起来像是一种噱头，被附加到与传统文化几乎没有关联的产品上。对于汉堡，人们或许也会这么说。好在塔斯汀的汉堡价格实惠。
morsel
[ˈmɔrsəl] n. 一小口；小块
shred
[ʃred] n. 细条；碎片 v. 撕成碎片
patriotic
[ˌpeɪtriˈɑːtɪk] adj. 爱国的
gimmick
[ˈɡɪmɪk] n. 花招；手法；噱头
