【经济学人】食品安全丨2017.05.04丨总第899期

SOMETHING catches the eye on Anarkali Food Street in Lahore, the capital of Punjab province. Bakers are pulling nan bread out of a tandoor oven, just as they did when the 200-year-old bazaar was founded. One detail, however, is strikingly contemporary: synthetic paper hairnets, in a vivid shade of green. “We are worried about the food inspector,” explains Muhammad Aslam, as he wraps dough around a stone.

阿纳尔克里食品街位于旁遮普省首府拉合尔市，街上的一些现象引起了人们的注意。这个集市已经有200多年的历史，当烘培者把面包从炉子中取出来，他们的做法和集市刚建立时一样。然而，里面有一个细节是非常现代化的：用合成纸做的鲜绿色发罩。默罕默德·阿斯拉姆正在把生面团围绕一块石头放好，他说：“我们很怕那些食品卫生监督员。”

• Bazaar：集市

The feared scrutineers belong to the Punjab Food Authority (PFA), the first agency of its kind in Pakistan. Founded in 2011, it has its work cut out: some restaurants use rancid cooking oil, keep raw chicken on the floor or try to pass off donkey as beef. Such a scandal is the state of hygiene in Pakistan’s restaurants that television shows about crime often feature exposés of particularly abhorrent eateries, using jerky footage from hand-held cameras.（读者试译）

这些令人生畏的监察者是旁遮普食品监察局（PFA）的，它是巴基斯坦第一个食品监督机构，成立于2011年。PFA已经发现了很多食品安全问题，例如一些餐馆使用变质的油，把生鸡肉放在地上，用驴肉充当牛肉。（期待您的翻译，明天会有针对这句话的长难句解析哟~）

• Hygiene：卫生

• Eateries：小餐馆

The PFA’s new chief, Noorul Amin Mengal, says it cannot hope to keep tabs on all Punjab’s food outlets. On April 17th he proposed that restaurant customers conduct their own food inspections, using a smartphone app produced by the PFA. But restaurants will be hostile to such intrusion: most of them do not welcome visitors to their kitchens. Your correspondent asked to enter several in Lahore, in both down-at-heel establishments and ritzy ones, and was barred each time.

旁遮普食品监察局的新任长官Noorul Amin Mengal 称，该组织无法密切关注旁遮普所有的餐饮店铺。4月17日，他提议餐馆顾客自己用旁遮普食品监察局推出的智能手机应用来做食品检查。但是餐馆会对这样的行为充满敌意：大多数餐馆都不欢迎外人进入厨房。在拉合尔，当记者提出进入几家餐厅的厨房时，无一例外地都被拦在外面，不论那家餐厅是破败的还是装潢时髦的。

• Intrusion 入侵

• down-at-heel 衣衫褴褛的

Pakistan’s government, however, is keen on food inspections. In the past two months it has approved an expansion of the PFA’s operations from cities to rural areas, and signed off on the creation of equivalent agencies in the province of Sindh and in Islamabad, the capital.

然而巴基斯坦政府热心于食品监察工作。在过去的两个月里，政府批准将PFA的职能范围从城市地区扩大到农村地区，并且签署法令，在信德省和首都伊斯兰堡成立同等职能的部门。

• signed off 签署

A fomer PFA official, Ayesha Mumtaz, made it wildly popular. In just over a year at the agency, she ordered almost 3,000 restaurants to close until they had made improvements, and arrested close to 400 people for selling dodgy fare. She transformed the food culture of Lahore, says Yasmin Khan, a restaurant-owner. Lookalikes of the so-called “fearless lady” used to send the kebab-hawkers on Anarkali Food Street running for cover.

前PFA官员艾莎·蒙塔兹大张旗鼓地行事。在这个机构仅呆了一年，她就让近3000家餐馆关门直到它们做出改善，她还逮捕了近400位兜售假票的票贩子。餐馆主Yasmin Khan评论道，她改变了拉合尔的饮食文化。这位“无畏女士”的同事通常只会让卖烤肉串的小贩到阿纳尔克里食品街避避风头。

• Dodgy:规避的，躲避的，假的，伪造的

• Lookalikes：相似的人或事

• Kebab-hawkers:烤肉串的小贩

• Running for cover:寻求庇护

Mrs Mumtaz has 61,000 fans on Facebook; the central-government minister responsible for food safety has barely 4,000. But she made enemies in the food business and among politicians connected with it. She was removed from her post in October, after allegations of corruption involving her driver surfaced. Since then, Lahoris say, there has been a lull in inspections.

蒙塔兹女士在Facebook上拥有61000位粉丝，而负责食品安全的中央政府部长才仅仅有4000人。但是餐饮界的不法商贩和与他们有所勾结的政界人物视她为敌。十月，在众多指控称她的司机涉及腐败案后，她被调离了岗位。拉合尔居民说，从那之后食品检查就暂停了。

• Make Enemies：树立敌人

• Allegation：指控，陈述

The fear Mrs Mumtaz inspired still keeps some food-sellers on their toes. “If Ayesha Mumtaz wasn’t so strict, I wouldn’t be wearing this glove,” says a cupcake-salesman who had not realised that she had been replaced. But as temperatures rise and inspections wane, others are already abandoning their bothersome hygienic garb.

蒙塔兹女士激发的恐惧依然让部分食物商紧张不已。“如果艾莎·蒙塔兹不那么严格的话，我就不用戴这个手套了，”说这话的纸杯蛋糕商一直不知道蒙塔兹已经不在职了。但是随着温度的上升和检查力度的减弱，其他的人已经不再穿麻烦的卫生服了。

• Keep sb. On their toes：让某人忙个不停

• Bothersome：麻烦的，令人讨厌的

• Hygienic：卫生的，保健的

翻译 ▍笨小孩，下罗小柜员，Bibobibo，陌上

审核 ▍白夜叉

图文编辑 ▍小精灵

责任编辑 ▍毛毛