【卫报】再见好莱坞，全球时尚潮流看硅谷！

忘掉洛杉矶吧。不管进军食品行业还是时尚行业，要想迅速出名，快速致富，还是得去旧金山。但是作为全球精英新秀，手握如此号召力，需要付出什么代价？

再见好莱坞，全球时尚潮流看硅谷

撰文： Jess Cartner-Morley

译者：赵萌萌&王津雨

校对：徐嘉茵

策划：邹世昌

The 21st-century Hollywood: how Silicon Valley became the world’s trend capital

21世纪的好莱坞：硅谷——引领全球时尚潮流

本文选自 The Guardian | 取经号原创翻译

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The strangest thing about Bulletproof Coffee isn’t stirring a pellet of grass-fed butter and a dollop of coconut oil into your morning cup and calling it breakfast, weird though that is to swallow. No, what makes Bulletproof really unusual is the trajectory the trend has followed. The craze started with the Silicon Valley entrepreneur Dave Asprey , who turned the alleged weight-shedding, brainpower-enhancing benefits of caffeine turbocharged with fat into a mini-empire. He took the idea to Santa Monica , where he opened a cafe. David Beckham started dropping in.

关于 防弹咖啡(Bulletproof Coffee) ，最令人匪夷所思的不是在早上喝的咖啡里加几滴无盐植物黄油和椰油就能叫早餐，毕竟虽奇怪，但也能吃。真正让防弹咖啡如此不同寻常的是其发迹史。这场热潮始于硅谷企业家 戴夫•亚斯普(Dave Asprey) 。据称咖啡因与脂肪的结合不仅有减肥功效，还可提升智力，这位企业家就是利用了这一点，发展出了自己的咖啡帝国。他还将自己的理念应用到了 圣莫尼卡 ，在那里开了咖啡厅。就连大卫·贝克汉姆都前来支持。

From there, it spread to fashion. Vogue has called it “the new green juice”; at the recent fashion shows, it was on the way to replacing espresso and egg-white omelette as the standard front-row breakfast. Dan Brown , whose novels surely give him zeitgeist bragging rights, has been telling interviewers how 4am writing sessions for his latest book, Origin , were fuelled by Bulletproof. Asprey’s ready-made, cold-pressed Bulletproof products are about to go on sale in Whole Foods Market stores, at which point the journey from Silicon Valley quirk to bona fide hipster lifestyle trend will be complete.

一切都始于这家咖啡厅，就是从这里，防弹咖啡开始受到时尚界人士的青睐。美国时尚杂志《Vogue》将其封为“新型绿色饮品”。最近的时装秀上，秀场前排的时尚界大佬们不再拿浓缩咖啡和蛋白早餐饼，而是人手一杯防弹咖啡。这股“防弹旋风”还刮到了文学界。 丹·布朗(Dan Brown) 的小说在当代的确给了他炫耀的资本。接受采访时，他总会说一通防弹咖啡是如何让他凌晨四点写新书 《起源》(Origin) 还精力充沛。亚斯普的预包装冷藏版防弹咖啡也即将在全食超市上市，至此，防弹咖啡完成了从硅谷到真正嬉皮生活风潮的进化。

The direction of travel of trends outwards from Silicon Valley was visible when Duncan Selbie, the chief executive of Public Health England, warned of the “perils of sitting at your desk” all day and called for employers to introduce “walking meetings” to reduce stress and back pain among the workforce. The pioneer of the walking meeting was Steve Jobs and the habit is so deeply ingrained in Silicon Valley culture that the Frank Gehry-designed Facebook headquarters features four hectares of wifi-enabled wildflower meadows, with milkshake stands dotted along paths. On Prince Street in New York’s Soho, the newest boutique to open alongside Marc Jacobs and Ralph Lauren is evidence of the first true fashion trend to originate in Silicon Valley. Allbirds, the woollen sneakers that are already de rigueur at Googleplex Google, are spreading to “a creative class of people … architects, interior designers, entertainers in music and acting”, as the San Francisco-based cofounder Joey Zwillinger told the New York Observer .

在 英国英格兰公共卫生署(Public Health England) 署长 邓肯∙塞尔(Duncan Selbie) 告诫人们成天“坐在桌子前很危险”，呼吁企业高管采用“行走会议”减轻员工压力，缓解背痛问题时，防弹咖啡走出硅谷就是板上钉钉的事了。这种会议模式首先由史蒂夫·乔布斯采用，现在已经成为了硅谷文化不可或缺的一部分。从弗兰克·盖里(Frank Gehry)负责设计的Facebook总部就可看出端倪：占地四公顷的草地，全WiFi覆盖，绿意盎然，花团锦簇。花园小径上时不时还能碰到奶昔小摊。纽约苏豪区的王子街上新开的精品店，紧挨着马克·雅可布(Marc Jacobs)和拉夫·劳(Ralph Lauren)，这就是根植于硅谷的时尚潮流的表现。这家羊毛运动鞋品牌Allbirds现已成为谷歌总部Googleplex的社交必备单品，其受众还扩展到了“创造型人群，譬如建筑师、室内设计师、演艺艺人等”，Allbirds的联合创始人乔伊·茨维林格(Joey Zwillinger)（工作地点位于旧金山）在接受 《纽约观察家》(New York Observer) 采访时说道。

“Free sushi, massage chairs, toilet seats that heat up – employees at top companies here live like celebrities,” says Ravi Belani , director of the Alchemist, a startup accelerator and lecturer in entrepreneurship at Stanford University Alchemist Accelerator. Two hundred miles from the Sierra Nevada, where gold-rush fortunes were made overnight in the 19th century, and 500 miles from the Los Angeles hills where stars were born in the 20th century, Silicon Valley has become the 21st-century Hollywood. If you want to get rich and famous fast, this is where you need to be. “It’s not like this place is full of beautiful people,” says Bebe Chueh, the cofounder of the law firm Atrium, which specialises in helping startups, “but you can accelerate your career here. You don’t need to wade for years through a company structure. You can make it all happen when you are 22.” Anjula Acharia, who, as a celebrity manager and a partner in Trinity Ventures, bestrides the worlds of Hollywood and tech, says that, in the tech sphere, “people are still wearing anoraks. They do still look sort of geeky. This is definitely not New York or London in terms of style. But they have become the global elite. People see that, and they want to be part of that world.”

硅谷创业加速器主管人兼斯坦福大学创业讲师， 拉维·贝拉尼(Ravi Belani) 说道，“免费寿司，按摩椅，自动加热马桶坐垫——硅谷顶尖公司的员工过着名人的生活。”硅谷距19世纪的淘金热发源地内华达山脉有200英里，距20世纪巨星诞生的洛杉矶好莱坞山有500英里，现已成为21世纪的好莱坞。要想迅速出名，快速致富，来这里准没错。Atrium律师事务所主要为初创公司提供法律服务，其合伙人Bebe Chueh表示，“并不是因为硅谷有很多好看的人，而是在这里你的职业发展可以很快，不需要受制于公司结构，花上几年的时间也没法升职。就算你只有22岁也完全可以走上人生巅峰。”风投公司Trinity Ventures合伙人兼明星经纪人，安朱拉·阿查里亚(Anjula Acharia)在好莱坞与科技界都是呼风唤雨的大人物，她表示在科技领域，“硅谷的人们还是会穿连帽衫，还是会带点书呆子气，绝对不是纽约或伦敦的那种时尚，但人家是全球精英。别人也意识到了这点，就想成为他们中的一员。”

“Twenty years ago, when we started lastminute.com, tech was totally weird and geeky,” remembers the cross-bench peer and Twitter board member Martha Lane Fox . “At that point, people were still wondering if the internet was really going to be a thing. As a relatively young woman wanting to be involved in it, I struck people as bizarre. And, although there are still not nearly enough women, that perception has changed. There has been a huge cultural shift.”

英国国会中立议员代表兼推特董事， 马莎·莱恩·福克斯(Martha Lane Fox) 回忆道，“20年前 lastminute.com 刚创建时，科技还没被大众接受，人们还觉得搞科技的人都是书呆子。那时的人们还在怀疑网络到底能不能成功。当时人们都觉得想要投身科技的我是个很奇怪的年轻女孩。到了现在，虽然女性人数还是不多，但人们已经可以接受女性进入这个行业。文化上的转变很大。”

“Revenge of the nerds” is how Troy Carter – the former manager of Lady Gaga and now a Silicon Valley venture capitalist – describes this change. Last year, Carter told Time magazine about leaving a barbecue in Silicon Valley with a feeling that “the power was shifting”. The new stardust glinting from the glass offices of Silicon Valley has not gone unnoticed by the fashion world. Virgil Abloh , the founder of Off-White , a Kanye West collaborator and probably the hottest name in the fashion industry right now, attended September’s iPhone X launch in the company of his friend Jony Ive, the chief design officer of Apple, and Angela Ahrendts, senior vice-president of retail at Apple, who was wearing a pink lace Burberry trench (Ahrendts was CEO of Burberry until 2014).

Lady Gaga前经纪人，如今的硅谷创业投资人特洛伊·卡特(Troy Carter)将今年的转变称作“书呆子复仇记”。去年，卡特接受《时代周刊》采访时称，离开硅谷的烧烤派对后，他就感觉到“权力中心变了”。硅谷玻璃办公室上折射出的点点光斑终于引起了时尚界的注意。 纽约街头潮牌品牌Off-White 创始人 Virgil Abloh ，曾任坎耶·韦斯特(Kanye West)的创意总监，是今天时尚行业最炙手可热的名字。他于今年九月份出席了苹果Iphone X的发布会，同去的还有他的朋友，苹果公司首席设计官乔纳森·埃维(Jony Ive)，以及发布会当天身穿博柏利粉色蕾丝Trench风衣的苹果零售部门高级副总裁安格拉·阿伦茨(Angela Ahrendts)，2014年之前她一直担任博柏利的执行总裁。

In the same month, the San Francisco-born, New York-based fashion designer Alexander Wang – who, until recently, liked to hold up Ralph Lauren’s empire as his aspiration – began to talk about wanting to be more like Amazon. “Obviously, the big opportunity is digital. I feel that today there is still not a single lifestyle brand that operates like a tech company,” he said. “Imagine a creative director today for a brand like Amazon. What would that look like?” Karl Lagerfeld has built Chanel into a pop-cultural powerhouse on the back of his instinct for the modern and has made gorgeous, aspirational set design a fashion-week calling card – a Paris street by night, the gardens of Versailles. Last October, he built a datacentre for his show, with the colours of tweed suits picked out in tangles of Ethernet cables.

同年九月，生于旧金山的纽约时装设计师 王大仁(Alexander Wang) 向外界宣布自己想要与亚马逊接轨，而他之前还一直说自己以拉夫·劳伦的时装帝国为奋斗目标来着。“很明显，如今最大的机遇就是数据化，我觉得现在与生活方式挂钩的那些品牌，它们的运营模式，没有一个像科技公司那样”，王大仁表示，“想象一下如今亚马逊这种品牌的创意总监，会是什么样子？” 卡尔·拉格斐(Karl Lagerfeld)凭借他对现代时尚的敏锐触觉，将香奈儿打造为了引领流行文化潮流的品牌，其华丽梦幻的秀场设计也成为了时装周的风向标——巴黎夜景，凡尔赛花园。去年十月，他操刀的数据中心时装秀，主要用了千鸟格套装的格纹元素，周围还堆着以太网的电缆。

Silicon Valley’s ascent to glamour can be crudely measured in the intermarriage with models (Snapchat’s Evan Spiegel to Victoria’s Secret’s Miranda Kerr, in May), ostentatious parties (Sean Parker’s fantasy-themed redwood forest wedding, reported to have cost $10m) and glossy magazine covers (Spiegel was called “the first Silicon Valley sex symbol” by GQ after landing the cover of Italian Vogue Uomo two years ago). Not to mention the films ( The Social Network , 2010), the booming roll-call of bold-faced name investors (Jay-Z in Uber, Ashton Kutcher in Airbnb) and, er, interplanetary ambitions (Elon Musk is only dropping by on his way to Mars). At the core of all this, says Lane Fox, is the new reality that “tech is at the centre of who we are – and that is true for celebrities as well. Managing social media is a huge part of being a model or a pop star now, so, in a way, they are stars of tech.”

硅谷的魅力该从何说起？首先，从模特，盛大派对，到杂志封面无一不闪耀着硅谷的光辉。Snapchat创始人埃文·斯皮格尔(Evan Spiegel)，继两年前登上意大利版《Vogue Uomo》后，又登上《GQ》封面且被封为“硅谷性幻想对象第一人”，今年5月，堪称人生赢家的他还迎娶了维密天使米兰达•可儿(Miranda Kerr)。Facebook首任总裁西恩·帕克(Sean Parker)花费1000万美元举办了自己的梦幻森林婚礼。此外还有电影界，名人，星际梦。在它们之中，硅谷的人气更是居高不下。硅谷的真实故事被拍成 《社交网络》 登上了大荧幕。重量级人物Jay-Z、阿什顿库彻(Ashton Kutcher)分别成了优步、Airbnb的投资者。而伊隆·马斯克(Elon Musk)的火星梦才刚刚开始。莱恩·福克斯表示对此表示，越来越多的事情让我们看到了真实的当下——“以科技为中心的所有人的当下，连名人都不能例外。如今不管是模特还是明星都离不了社交媒体，所以从某种意义上来说，他们都是科技明星。”

The financial crisis played its part in Silicon Valley’s Hollywood makeover. “After 2008, a lot of the Ivy League grads who would have gone to Wall Street to make money started to come to Silicon Valley instead. There was a new sexiness about being an entrepreneur,” says Belani. “There have been negative imports that have come with that: a kind of bro culture, or fraternity culture, that arrived with that intake,” he adds. Chueh has seen a physical and cultural migration since she moved to San Francisco in 2011. “Gradually, the ecosystem has moved from Cupertino , where the culture was kind of hardcore geeky, to San Francisco, where it is more about web applications and tech-enabled ideas than it is about hardware and semiconductors.” Chichi members’ clubs have sprung up in the city: the Battery in 2015, the Modernist this year. The size of Silicon Valley egos have been mapped, through the last decade, in the pages of the architecture journals that have tracked an arms race of starchitect-designed offices. The Airbnb headquarters features a replica of the war room from Dr Strangelove. The new Apple Park spaceship has grandeur on a scale to rival the pharaohs’ pyramids.

在硅谷改头换面成为好莱坞的过程中，经济危机起到了一定作用。如贝拉尼所说：“2008年之后，许多常青藤院校毕业生们本该去华尔街赚钱，却开始转而前往硅谷。身为企业家成了一种新的性感标志。”他还补充道：“已有一些糟粕随之而来：兄弟文化、或兄弟会文化已随着上述人口流入而进入了硅谷。”自从2011年搬去旧金山后，Chueh已见识了实际的人口迁移和文化方面的迁移。“经济体系已逐渐从 库比蒂诺 转移到了旧金山。前者推崇绝对的极客文化，后者则更加推崇网络应用和具备技术支撑的想法，而非硬件和半导体。”追赶时髦的人们组建的俱乐部已在旧金山崭露头角：2015年“电池”俱乐部(the Battery)成立，今年“现代主义者”俱乐部(the Modernist)成立。在过去十年内，建筑类杂志中已有关于硅谷自我感觉良好的报道，而这些杂志也闻到了那些由明星建筑师设计的办公室里的火药味，并展开追踪。Airbnb总部大楼的特色在于，它复制了电影《奇爱博士》中的作战室。而新的苹果飞船总部大楼的宏大规模，能与法老的金字塔一争高下。

Cupertino ：库比蒂诺，苹果电脑的全球总公司所在地。（译者注）

Silicon Valley has shaped a new culture in which work looks like play (ping-pong tables in reception, bean bags in W1A), but in which being off duty is frowned upon, even at weekends. “This is rooted in the brutal reality that, when you run a website, it’s always on,” says Lane Fox. “It’s not like a shop. You don’t get to close it.” Combined with the sense of mission that is the Silicon Valley creation myth, this has bred a workaholic culture, which has become a badge of honour. “The idea here is that work and play are one,” says Chueh. “Work isn’t something you go to from nine to five to get a paycheck. It’s an extension of your passion.”

硅谷已塑造了一种新兴文化：工作就像玩儿一样（如接待处安置了乒乓球桌；电视剧W1A里面的豆袋沙发）；但同时，即使在周末，歇班也会遭人白眼。雷恩·福克斯说道：“这根植于一个残酷的现实：当你运营一个网站时，它就一直运行着。网站不像商店，你不能去关闭它。”硅谷以开天辟地为使命，上述文化与这种使命感共同孕育出了一种工作狂文化，这种工作狂文化已成为一种荣誉的象征。如Chueh所说：“硅谷的理念是工作娱乐融为一体。工作不是朝九晚五上班然后拿到薪水，它是你的激情的延伸。”

Silicon Valley is a driving force behind a boom in veganism, powered by enthusiasm for healthy, sustainable faux-meat

硅谷是素食主义繁荣发展背后的驱动力，人们热衷于健康的、可持续提供的“素肉”，这为素食主义注入了动力。

The working hours take their toll, and while early startup culture was fuelled by pizzas laid on for team all-nighters, Silicon Valley has gradually absorbed the wellness fixation of its native California. Bowls of free M&Ms have been replaced by meditation pods. At Apple Park, fruit from the 9,000 drought-resistant trees will be harvested for use in the canteen, which will serve 14,000 lunches a day. In parallel with the keto-diet and Bulletproof enthusiasts, Silicon Valley is a driving force behind a boom in veganism, powered by enthusiasm for the new frontier of healthy, sustainable faux-meat products. “It’s cool now to be vegan,” says Belani.

工作时段造成了损害，正当团队成员们通宵工作、靠披萨果腹、并以此催生着早期创业文化之际，硅谷却已逐渐汲取着加州本土执着追求健康的精神。一碗碗免费的M&M豆已被小型冥想室所取代。在苹果总部，9000棵抗旱果树上结出的水果将被采摘下来，运进每天供应14000份餐的食堂。硅谷与那些酮类食品和防弹咖啡的发烧友们一道，成为了素食主义繁荣发展背后的驱动力，人们热衷于新兴的健康、可持续提供的“素肉”产品，这为素食主义注入了动力。如贝拉尼所说：“现在成为素食者是很酷的。”