在夏洛茨维尔游行中，白人至上主义者将白色POLO衫作为制服，使其蒙上了一层KKK党的恐怖色彩。白色POLO衫，这一人畜无害的单品自问世以来便成为时尚与平民的宠儿，洁净的白色，在人们心中也早已被染成了五颜六色，歌颂着人类的进步，也哀叹着世界的倒退。
新右翼的潮流单品：白色polo衫
译者：
杨婧娴
校对：
李 煦
导读&笔记：张鑫健
策划：王旻彦
The white polo shirt: how the alt-right co-opted a modern classic
新右翼的潮流单品：白色polo衫
本文选自 Wired
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From its roots in the worlds of polo and tennis, through Ralph Lauren and the rap scene, the white polo shirt is a garment
loaded with aspiration
. For the white supremacists who marched on Charlottesville, it acted, chillingly, as a uniform
白色Polo衫起源于马球和网球运动，经拉夫·劳伦（译者注:国际著名服装品牌的创始人）说唱文化之手发扬光大，
吸引万众瞩目
。然而可怕的是，它却成了夏洛茨维尔白人至上主义游行者的制服。（译者注： 8月12号，美国弗吉尼亚州夏洛茨维尔市因市政府早前决定移除市中心一尊美国内战时期南方将军罗伯特·李的雕像，爆发大规模骚乱，造成多人死伤。上千名民族主义者聚集举行火炬游行，声称白人正在丧失在美国的主体地位，呼吁白人联合起来对抗少数族裔。）
Last week, film-maker and GQ correspondent CJ Hunt was in the middle of the Charlottesville violence
when he recorded something extraordinary
. A young man ran into
frame
. Separated from his supremacist clan, lost amidst the leftists, in panic he
whipped off
his white polo shirt to stand semi-naked: “I’m not really white power, man,” he shouts. “I’m just doing it for fun.” The message was clear. White polo shirt on = white power. White polo shirt off =
normal bloke
.
上周，电影制作人、《GQ》（
Gentlemen’s Quarterly
）杂志记者CJ·亨特亲历夏洛茨维尔暴力事件，拍摄下罕见的一幕：
画面
里冒出一名年轻男子，置身白人至上主义者阵营之外，与周围的左派分子格格不入，慌乱之下他
迅速脱下
身上穿的白色polo衫，半裸着大叫：“各位，我不是真的白人极权者，这么做就是图个好玩。”这宣言够直白：白色polo衫加身就是站队白人权力；不穿，你就是
路人甲
。
At Charlottesville, many of the far-right turned up wearing a uniform of
powder-white
polo shirts, with jeans or
chinos
– an overall air of country club
pomade
was practically hanging in the air. Carrying their
tiki torches
they were attempting to cultivate an aesthetic that could appear non-threatening, even aspirational.
在夏洛茨维尔，
白亮的
polo衫搭配牛仔裤或
斜纹裤
，是很多极右份子的统一制服，他们所到之处，一股乡村俱乐部
润发油
的气息挥之不去。他们手举
提基火炬
（译者注：始于波利尼西亚提基文化的竹编火炬，常用于户外装饰或照明），试图培养一种人畜无害，甚至令人神往的美学理念。
The
cornerstone
of the look was the white polo shirt, and nothing about that uniform was accidental. Before Charlottesville,Andrew Anglin, founder of the Daily Stormer (the American neo-Nazi and white supremacist website), issued an edict: “We need to be extremely conscious of what we look like, and how we present ourselves.”
白色polo衫是撑起这身穿搭的
核心
单品，它成为右翼制服绝非偶然。早在夏洛茨维尔暴力事件前，美国新纳粹和白人极权网站“每日冲锋报道”的创始人安德鲁·安格林向世人广而告之：“个人仪表，待人处事之道，自己心里要有数”。
cornerstone
（noun）：①a stone in a corner of a building, especially one with the date when the building was made or other writing on it.
②something of great importance that everything else depends on.
“A must-have in each wardrobe” read the caption for a European Brotherhood polo shirt – available for €49 on the Daily Stormer’s website, before it went offline. Other logos were available, up to and including an
Iron Cross
.
以前，“每日冲锋报道”网站还提供在线polo衫销售，花49欧元可以买到一件欧洲联盟polo衫，文案上写道“衣橱必备单品”。 消费者可以自选标志，
铁十字勋章
也在其列（译者注：铁十字勋章，战时德国奖给英勇表现官兵的最高勋章，设立于1813年）。
Vanguard America, the organisation w
ith which
James Fields
, the man accused of
mowing down
a crowd of anti-fascist protesters, was photographed, had already consciously adopted this polo shirt as its uniform. Fields didn’t belong to VA, but he was given one of its shields erroneously, simply because he was wearing a white polo shirt.
詹姆斯·菲尔茨曾被指控
残杀
一群反法西斯的抗议者，有人对他和先锋美国组织进行了拍照取证，先锋美国早有意将这种白色polo衫定为制服，菲尔茨不属于先锋美国一员却承蒙其“错爱”，仅是因为他当时穿了一件白色polo衫。
mow sb down
：
to kill people, usually in large numbers, by shooting them or driving a vehicle into them
The relationship between the right and the polo shirt arguably began in the 1960s.
The Mods
were a working-class movement – rebelling against their origins by dressing sharper than their supposed betters. A
sub-sect
known as the Hard Mods emerged in 1966 – initially non-violent and non-political – and went on to adopt Fred Perry, polo shirt and all, as one of its labels of choice. In 1969, the Daily Mirror gave them a new name: skinheads. When some of these men began being violent towards Asians, newly arrived in the country, and hanging around the British National Front in the 1970s, the association stuck.
右翼势力和polo衫的渊源大约追溯到上世纪六十年代。 工人阶级发起
摩登派
运动，比本应处境更优渥的阶级穿得更有范儿，以此反抗“低人一等”的出身。其中，硬摩登派这一
分支
于1966年问世伊始，不用暴力，不问政治。他们将弗莱德·派瑞品牌纳入首选，其旗下商品包括polo衫及其他。1969年，《每日镜报》给硬摩登派取了一个新名字：光头党。70年代，他们当中有人开始对亚洲人，初来乍到者，徘徊在英国国民战线边缘的人使用暴力，摩登派联盟举足不前。
Polo shirts haven’t always been so politicised – their origins are a little hazy, with some attributing them to a polo club in Argentina in the late 19th century, where players found the traditional gear was too hot; others to British polo players in India in the 19th century. But it was French tennis player René Lacoste who made a name for the collared shirt when he wore one to play in the US Open in New York City in 1926. Bringing it to the US – complete with the crocodile logo his nickname inspired – in 1952 through La Chemise Lacoste, the company he set up on his retirement from tennis.
Polo衫不完全关乎于政治。问其起源，何时何地不得而知，有人回溯到19世纪晚期认为传统装备穿起来太热的阿根廷马球俱乐部；也有人提及19世纪印度的英国马球运动员。但是它的成名，离不开法国网球运动员勒内·拉科斯特。他曾身着这种有领T恤亮相1926年纽约举行的美国网球公开赛。退役后，他创办了拉科斯特衬衫公司，公司鳄鱼标志的灵感来源于别人给他取的昵称，1952年，勒内将polo衫引入美国。
Of course there is a huge irony in men in polo shirts chanting: “Jews will never replace us” – Lauren, born Ralph Lifschitz, was the son of Jewish Belarussian immigrants.
若穿着polo衫高呼：“犹太人永不可取代我们”，这一幕无疑极富讽刺意味，因为拉夫·劳伦本是白俄罗斯犹太人之子，原名拉夫·里夫希茨（译者注：拉夫·劳伦秉持古典优雅与美式休闲风范，设计简单实用的Polo衫，成为家喻户晓的经典）。
He cleverly exploited the polo’s aspirational connotations, its WASPy roots in sports such as tennis, polo, sailing, golf – the kind that require a few acres of land or an
ocean-going vessel
to play. The purity of his preppiness is entirely born out of a fantasy – Lauren’s own, fondest dream was to one day enter that
Cape Cod bourgeoisie
. The same sense of exclusivity has put the white polo at the heart of Donald Trump’s golfing lookbook.
