【经济学人】中国网红：撬动千亿市场，改变电商业态

网红，不止一张脸那么简单。网红经济，因其较高的消费转化率、精准的营销和平民化的定位，日渐受到资本的追捧。在这个瞬息万变的时代里，成功的网红通过成功的内容运营，构筑稳固的粉丝群体，形成稳定的价值输出，早已实现从流量到变现的华丽转身。

中国网红：撬动千亿市场，改变电商业态

译者： 刘   璠

校对： 刘   蕊

策划：刘   璠

本文选自 The Economist  | 取经号原创翻译

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Online starlets are refashioning Chinese e-commerce

网红：重塑中国电子商务业态

Social-media personalities are successfully monetising their popularity

社交媒体红人正成功将其人气变现

LIANG TAO shifted 80 pink Givenchy bags in 12 minutes. Becky Fang offloaded 100 turquoise Mini Cooper cars in just five. Both are wanghong, literally “red-hot on the web”. Every day millions of Chinese trawl social media for wanghong posts or tune in to live-streams for opinions on everything from a French fashionista’s essentials to rampant sexism in China. The fans are helping this new breed of Chinese internet star to monetise their popularity—and to shake up the country’s e-commerce industry in the process.

梁韬在12分钟里将80个粉色纪梵希包包销售一空。5分钟内，黎贝卡（译者注：原名方夷敏） 卖光了100辆加勒比蓝Mini Cooper。这两位都是“网红”，即“网络红人”。每天，数以百万计的中国网民通过社交媒体 搜索 网红发布的帖子，或者进入直播频道观看评论，从法国时尚必需品到中国普遍的性别歧视问题，内容包罗万象。随着粉丝的聚集，这些中国新型的网络明星正在将他们的人气慢慢变现——并正在改变着中国电子商务的生态。

trawl /trɔ:l/ verb (through sth) (for sth/ sb) | ~ sth (for sth/ sb) to search through a large amount of information or a large number of people, places, etc. looking for a particular thing or person 查阅（资料）；搜集，搜罗，网罗（人或物）

Unlike conventional luxury-and-beauty brand ambassadors, many wanghong have built their fan bases through compelling online content rather than a famous name. Some of the most successful are not especially glamorous. “Pudgy Luo” is a middle-aged man who discusses everything from Chinese emperors to 3D printing on his talk-show. MC Tianyou raps about the hardships faced by other young, working-class men. Papi Jiang, a comedian, pokes fun at stardom and Chinese society in salty tirades .

不同于传统的奢侈品和美容行业的代言人，网红并不是依靠自己的名气来吸粉的。他们是通过在网络上发布吸人眼球的内容从而构筑起自己的粉丝群体的。最为出名的网红并非个个都是外表魅力出众。中年人“罗胖子”的脱口秀节目包罗万象，从中国历代帝王到3D打印技术，几乎无所不谈。MC天佑用说唱描绘了一些工薪阶层年轻人的艰难生活。喜剧人Papi酱则以 嘲讽 的方式 抨击 明星和中国社会。

tirade /taɪˈreɪd; NAmE ˈtaɪreɪd/ noun ~ (against sb/ sth)  a long angry speech criticizing sb/ sth or accusing sb of sth （批评或指责性的）长篇激烈讲话

A few have been recruited by luxury brands. After the Communist Party’s anti-corruption campaign crimped sales of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s snazzy timepieces among its traditional older clientele, the Swiss watchmaker hired Ms Jiang for a video ad targeting young urbanites, including her 27m fans on Sina Weibo, a Twitter-like microblog. Zhang Yi of iiMedia Research, a consultancy, reckons that up to 15% of sales on shopping sites like Taobao or social-media apps such as WeChat are influenced by wanghong endorsements. The length of a dress might be decided by a survey of a wanghong’s fans; its launch date might be based on the number of hits, shares or comments it garners, some of which can prompt last-minute design tweaks.

一些网红已经开始为奢侈品品牌代言。中共的反腐行动使得瑞士手表积家在传统的较为年长的客户群中的销路 受阻 。于是该品牌请来Papi酱出演了一支视频广告。这支广告将其目标客户锁定在了年轻的城市青年中，其中包括Papi酱在新浪微博（类似推特的微博）上的2700万粉丝。艾媒咨询的张艺（音）预计，淘宝和微信等购物网站或社交媒体上有多达15%的销量受到了网红的影响。一条裙子的长度可能是由粉丝调研的结果决定的，而这条裙子的发售日期可能是基于这条裙子获得的点击量、分享量和评论数来决定的。有些数据还能在最后一刻对裙子的设计产生影响。

crimp /krɪmp/ verb [VN] (NAmE, informal) to restrict the growth or development of sth 阻止，妨碍（某事物的发展）

This poses a new challenge for retailers, whose supply chains must respond ever more quickly to wanghong verdicts. Whereas previously a company would look for a celebrity to match its image, wanghong and their admirers are shaping merchandise.

这种变化对零售商们提出了新的挑战。供应链必须要对网红提出的要求作出实时响应。如果说从前是由公司去寻找符合其产品形象的名人来作代言的话，那么现在则是网红和他们的粉丝们正在对商品产生影响。

Another challenge comes directly from wanghong themselves. They increasingly make money not merely from online endorsements or advice but by launching their own e-commerce stores. Sales of goods accounted for just under half of wanghong earnings of 53bn yuan ($8bn) in 2016, estimates Analysys, a Chinese market-research firm (the rest came mostly from live-show tips and adverts).

另一个挑战则直接来自于网红们本身。逐渐的，网红们除了通过在网上做广告或给出购物建议来吸金之外，还建立了自己的网店。中国市调公司易观估算，2016年网红收入达530亿人民币（80亿美元），其中销售收入占据了近一半（其他收入主要来自于直播中得到的粉丝打赏和广告）。

Some wanghong are going a step further. In November Ms Fang launched her own clothing line. Part of her motivation, she says, was that the brands she endorsed did not always match the trends she was sharing with her followers. By creating her own marque, Becky’s Fantasy, she retains full control of the quality. She also gains a new revenue stream. For the time being only 3-5% of wanghong follow Ms Fang’s entrepreneurial example, iiMedia Research reckons. But it expects the model to become an industry in its own right, straddling entertainment and e-commerce, and driven by online data.

一些网红则走的更远。去年11月黎贝卡启动了她自己的服装生产线。她说这么做的部分原因是因为代言的产品并不能总是同她与粉丝们分享的时尚潮流相吻合。创立自己的品牌——黎贝卡的异想世界，可以对产品进行全方位把控，同时也能开辟一个新的收入源。艾媒咨询推测，目前只有3%—5%的网红采取了黎贝卡的创业模式。但是该公司预期这些网红应该会自成一派，建立一个 横跨 娱乐业和电子商务业、且受网络数据驱动的新产业。

straddle /ˈstrædl/ verb [VN] to exist within, or include, different periods of time, activities or groups of people 横跨，同属（不同时期、活动或群体）；两栖于（不同活动）

Agents of change

变化中的经纪人

An industry is indeed springing up to assist the internet starlets. Dedicated wanghong incubators , of which China now has around 50, seek out promising candidates, help them hone online business models and act as supply-chain managers, as well as agents. They help with hiring designers, sourcing fabrics and finding factories. In 2016 Alibaba, China’s biggest e-commerce group and owner of the Taobao emporium, invested 300m yuan in Ruhnn, an incubator which was valued at 3.1bn yuan at the time and has since inked contracts with a few dozen influencers.

网红经济也催生了网红孵化产业的诞生。中国目前约有50家网红 孵化器 ，致力于发现有潜力成为网红的新人，帮助他们打造网络商业模式，同时也作为供应链经理和经纪人参与运营。他们在寻找设计师、面料和工厂方面为网红提供支持。2016年阿里巴巴——中国最大的电子商务集团和淘宝网的母公司，向网红孵化器如涵电商投资了3亿人民币。该公司当时的市值为31亿人民币，并已经和几十个网红 签订 了合约。

ink /ɪŋk/ verb [VN] (NAmE, informal) to sign a document, especially a contract 签署，签订（合同等）

The wanghong economy looks poised to grow. In 2016 it was already 15% bigger than the Chinese film industry’s gross box-office sales, Analysys reckons. This year it could surpass 100bn yuan.

网红经济 蓄势待发 。易观数据估算，2016年，网红经济的规模已经超过中国电影业的毛票房收入约15%。今年网红经济的规模预计超过1千亿人民币。

poised /pɔɪzd/ adj. [not before noun] ~ for sth | ~ to do sth completely ready for sth or to do sth 有充分准备；准备好；蓄势待发 SYNset

Its success illustrates how intertwined online retail and social media are becoming in China. Alibaba has stakes in video-streaming sites such as Nonolive and Youku Tudou. A year ago Weibo launched a venture to support e-commerce wanghong and their incubators with consumer analytics and customer surveys; it owns a live-streaming platform, as does Taobao. Alibaba hopes such integration will keep shoppers on its marketplace for longer (an average one opens the Taobao app almost eight times a day). Other apps like Xiao Hong Shu (“Little Red Book”), a Pinterest-like e-commerce site, blur the distinction altogether.

网红经济的成功为我们展现了中国网上零售商和社交媒体之间的 紧密关系 。阿里巴巴在视频直播平台Nonolive和优酷土豆都占有股份。一年前，微博启动了一个项目。该项目从消费者数据分析和调研方面向网红和其孵化器提供支持。和淘宝一样，微博同样拥有一家直播平台。阿里巴巴希望网商和社交媒体之间的整合可以提高消费粘性（平均每人每天打开淘宝APP的次数约为8次）。其他APP如“小红书”（类似于Pinterest的电商网站），则早已将两者融为一体了。

intertwine /ˌɪntəˈtwaɪn; NAmE -tərˈtw-/ verb [usually passive] to be or become very closely connected with sth/ sb else 紧密相连 [VN] [usually passive]

Like all branding, however, the influencer business is a delicate one. Many consumers seemed put off when Christian Dior, a French fashion house, hired Zhao Liying, an actress who had previously endorsed mass consumer brands like Dove. Given the influence of wanghong, some of the more risqué can run into trouble with the authorities. The profane Ms Jiang has been reprimanded by censors. MC Tianyou was recently barred from his platforms for promoting drug use. Many starlets expect to quit after a couple of years, straining incubators’ business model. In the first half of 2017 Ruhnn was 15m yuan in the red. Some brands have started to look for lesser-known influencers, who command smaller fees and retain a more authentic image among devotees. It is hard to stay red-hot for long.

然而，就像所有的品牌推广一样，影响者经济（influencer business）是十分脆弱的。赵丽颖成为法国时尚品牌Dior的代言人之后，很多消费者似乎对该品牌表现出了保留态度。因为赵丽颖先前都是在为大众消费品牌如德芙等代言。鉴于网红的影响力，他们做出的一些 违反公序良俗的行为 也会引起官方的注意。Papi酱因为在节目中使用脏话而遭到了政府的 批评 。MC天佑近期也因在节目中谈论吸毒而遭到封杀。很多网红在几年后决定退出，使得孵化器的经营不堪重负。2017年上半年，如涵电商赤字达1500万人民币。一些品牌也开始寻找知名度相对较低的网红，以控制成本和提升品牌信任度。没有人可以保持长红不衰。