Obituary：Michel Roux
讣告：米歇尔•鲁
Cooking with Albert
跟艾伯特一起烹制佳肴
Michel Roux, transformer with his brother of the British restaurant scene, died on March 11th, aged 78
与兄长并称英国餐饮界改革家的米歇尔•鲁，逝于2020年3月11日，享年78岁
注：经济学人貌似对厨师情有独钟（强烈建议阅读）
1. 意大利美食教父安东尼奥.卡鲁奇奥
TE||The mushroom man
2. 法国厨神保罗.博古斯
TE||The maker of chefs
The sight was so awful that Michel Roux, then only in his 20s and new to London, quickly turned his face away. Through the window of the Lyons Corner House near Marble Arch he could see people eating British peas. The peas were fluorescent, big as quails’ eggs. And there was worse: on each side-plate a piece of sliced bread, limp as a handkerchief and bleached frighteningly white. He realised then that he had come to a land that was still in the culinary Dark Ages. And it was all Albert’s fault.
那年，只有20多岁的米歇尔•鲁刚到伦敦不久，便被眼前可怕的一幕吓得赶紧背过脸去：透过大理石拱门附近Lyons Corner House餐厅的窗户，他看到了正吃着英国豌豆的食客。那豌豆油亮可怖，大如鹌鹑蛋。更为糟糕的是：每只边碟里都放着片面包，软绵绵，像手帕，白得吓人，仿佛漂洗过。那一刻，他意识到，自己到了一个烹饪还停留在“黑暗时代”的国度。都怪艾伯特。
注：
Lyons Corner House餐厅（图片源于网络）
His older brother had persuaded him to come. He had been working as a chef in London for eight years, and now had plans. Those eventually led to the founding of two restaurants, Le Gavroche in Chelsea and the Waterside Inn at Bray in Berkshire, which transformed fine dining and the whole food scene in Britain. Each venue earned three Michelin stars, something the country had never experienced before. But as Michel stood aghast in the street that day, he was torn between revolutionary fervour and despair.
没错，是他哥说服他来英国的。在伦敦做了8年的厨师后，他哥计划自立门户，最终两兄弟创建了两家餐厅：一家是位于切尔西的Le Gavroche ，另一家是位于伯克郡布雷村的Waterside Inn, 它们重塑了英国的高端餐饮和整个英国美食圈。这两家餐厅都赢得了米其林三星餐厅的美誉，在此之前英国还没有餐厅达成过这项成就。但这些都是后话了，当米歇尔那天站在街上被吓得不轻的时候，他的内心既荡漾着改革的激情，又充斥着对现状的绝望，摇摆又纠结。
注：米其林餐厅的评价标准
https://www.zhihu.com/question/21345452
Despite the fact that Albert was dark, dumpy and short, and he was tall, fair and much handsomer, he had always looked up to him, so to speak. If Albert had been a fireman, he would have been a fireman too. As it was, Albert went young to be apprenticed to a pastry-chef, so at 14 he did the same. There at last he surpassed his brother, becoming so good at pastries and desserts that for many years he held the title of Best Pastrycook in France. No one could make an omelette soufflé Rothschild (succulent with apricots, perfumed with Cointreau, his tour de force when he was Cécile de Rothschild’s chef for nearly six years), the way he could. (Albert was more of a sauce man.) They bickered all the time, doing a tv cookery show later in which they flirted with filleting each other, but they made a good team; so in 1967 they bought their 90-seater restaurant in Lower Sloane Street and shook up London together.
尽管艾伯特皮肤黝黑、身材矮胖，而他皮肤白皙、身材高挑、长相也比艾伯特更为帅气，但是可以说他一直在仰望艾伯特。如果艾伯特当初当了消防员，他也会跟着去当消防员的。事实上，艾伯特很年轻的时候就去做了糕点师学徒，于是米歇尔14岁时也做了同样的选择。在这一领域，米歇尔最终超越兄长，成为了糕点和甜品制作的顶尖高手，因此连续多年获得法国“最佳糕点师”的称号。没人能像他那样制作罗斯柴尔德煎蛋舒芙蕾（裹着多汁的杏肉，散发着君度橙酒的香气，这是他在担任塞西尔•德•罗斯柴尔德的私人厨师将近6年时间里的拿手绝活。而艾伯特更擅长调制酱汁）。他们总是争吵不休，后来在录制一档电视美食节目时，他们在节目里相爱相杀、互损互怼，但是他们又配合默契、搭档完美；所以在1967年，他们买下了伦敦下斯隆街一间有90个座位的餐厅，然后一起以美食震撼伦敦。
注：
1. 舒芙蕾：又名蛋奶酥，一种法式蛋糕，甜品界公认最难做的甜品。继续了解请参阅以下网址：
https://www.marthastewart.com/1502576/souffle
2. 塞西尔•德•罗斯柴尔德（1913-1995）：法国男爵罗伯特•德•罗斯柴尔德（1880-1946）之女，高尔夫选手，在法国上层社交圈以智慧和深厚的艺术和人类心理学功底而闻名，欧洲乃至世界久负盛名的金融家族罗斯柴尔德家族的一员。她本人在大众里的知名度源于她是著名好莱坞影星葛丽泰·嘉宝的某一任同性伴侣。
3. Le Gavroche餐厅内景
What they offered was classic French-restaurant cuisine, short menus cooked fresh à la minute; not, as was the custom even in high-class British restaurants then, dishes reheated from frozen or cooked far in advance. Every ingredient was fresh too, often sourced from French suppliers whom they knew as friends. (Later, they ordered in almost everything from Rungis market in Paris.) As the business expanded, first with the Waterside Inn, then with two smaller restaurants in London, then with more down-market eateries that plain folk could almost afford, the same philosophy was applied to all of them, and a host of eager young British chefs were trained, some with Roux Scholarships, to run them.
兄弟俩的餐厅提供经典法式菜肴，菜单短小精炼，菜品现点现做；而非按照当时的惯用做法（甚至在英国的高级餐厅都是这样），把冷冻的或是早早做好的食物重新加热后端上餐桌。每一种食材也必须新鲜，常常从他认识的法国供货商朋友那里采购（后来，他们所有食材几乎都从法国龙吉斯市场订购）。随着生意扩张，他们先开了Waterside Inn，接着又在伦敦开了两家规模小一点的餐厅，再接着又开了许多面向普通消费群体的低档平价饭馆。同样的经营哲学应用到了各家餐厅。很多热切的年轻英国厨师接受了培训（其中一些人获得了Roux奖学金），来经营这些餐厅。
注：
1. 龙吉斯市场（Rungis market）：位于巴黎南郊，是全世界最大的生鲜交易市场。详见以下网址：
https://www.rungisinternational.com/en/
2. Roux奖学金：鲁克斯两兄弟于1984年创立，每年颁发一次。通过厨艺比赛选出优胜者，提供三个月的米其林星级餐厅实习。
https://worldscholarshipforum.com/zh-CN/roux%E5%85%84%E5%BC%9F%E5%A5%96%E5%AD%A6%E9%87%912018-2019/
All this made Michel enormously proud, yet it was hardly what he had expected. He had wavered about being a chef. With his looks and his deep voice—in his kitchen, he never needed a microphone—he might have made an opera singer. But love of food ran deep. Growing up as the son of a charcutier, he had learned whether it was Monday or Tuesday from the smell of boudin or andouillettes on the stairs; and his earliest memory was of beating up egg yolks which, as if by magic, thickened in the hot stock into sauce for his mother’s blanquette of veal. To run just one restaurant with Albert would have been good enough. And it was hard work: so hard that he was hardly ever at home, and his first wife divorced him. Though he knew almost no English, he still had to take his turn at front-of-house while Albert was manning the stove. They cooked and played host in alternate weeks, knowing well that if they tried to share service there might be blood.
这些当然都令米歇尔引以为傲，但很难说这是他所期望的。他曾犹豫是否要当厨师。凭借英俊的相貌和低沉的嗓音——在厨房里他从来不需要麦克风——他本可做一名歌剧演员。但是他对美食的热爱深入骨髓。作为猪肉商的儿子，他可以凭借楼梯上飘着的猪血香肠或者用来烤着吃的小香肠的气味，来判断那天是星期一还是星期二；他最早的记忆是搅拌蛋黄，蛋黄在热汤汁里仿佛被施了魔法一般地变得浓稠，成为妈妈用来制作白汁小牛肉的酱汁。和艾伯特一起开一家餐厅，就已经够好了。并且，开餐厅可不容易，而且是相当地不容易，以至于他几乎没时间回家，第一段婚姻也就此告吹。尽管不怎么懂英语，他还是必须在艾伯特掌勺时在前台招待客人。他和艾伯特每周轮流下厨和招待客人。因为他们清楚地知道，如果两个人待在一起的话，必定会吵得不可开交。
Both of them came up with ideas, but his strength lay in details. Precision and patience were a pastrycook’s skills. It mattered to him, for instance, that commis waiters should not talk to the customers and that diners should wear ties (he almost refused entry to the Rolling Stones when they turned up without them). Every ingredient had its right place, too, and as each arrived he would taste it, unseasoned, to judge exactly where it might sit within a dish. When he and Albert produced cookery books, spreading the revolution to ordinary British kitchens, he, being a perfectionist, wrote the words, just as on their cookery shows he was the suave and particular main presenter. And in 1986 it made sense to split their interests, so that while his brother went bustling after new business he departed for Bray, to run the whitewashed former pub on the Thames they had opened a decade before.
兄弟俩都有想法，但是米歇尔强在关注细节。精确和耐心是糕点师的技能。例如，对他来说，有些规矩很重要：初级服务生招待客人时不能同他们讲话，而客人则必须戴领带（他差点因为滚石乐队没有戴领带而将他们拒之门外）。每一种食材也都有自己适当的位置，且食材运到后，米歇尔会不加作料，先一一品尝，以确切判断它们在菜品中的位置。当米歇尔和艾伯特合著烹饪书籍、将烹饪革命带入普通英国人的厨房时，他作为完美主义者，担任了书籍的主笔，正如他们在录制美食节目时，他是那个温和文雅、讲解更多的人。而到了1986年，兄弟俩分道扬镳，各自追寻自己的兴趣，这也显得有几分道理。于是艾伯特为新生意奔波，而米歇尔则去往布雷村，去经营那家兄弟俩在十年前买下来的位于泰晤士河畔的餐厅（餐厅外墙刷白，前身是一家酒吧）。
注：
Waterside Inn餐厅外景
There, as the Waterside Inn reinforced its reputation (and kept its stars) with quenelles de brochet and his own sublime tarte Tatin, he could make a public virtue of being classic and old-fashioned. The dining rooms were padded deep with chintz. His wine cellar was exclusively French, for he loved his bordeaux and burgundies too well to stray—going to Bordeaux every year to taste the en primeur vintage, and cultivating his own vineyard at his villa near Saint-Tropez. Nouvelle cuisine passed him by: on his menus butter featured everywhere, irreplaceable and indispensable. And bad manners never ceased to infuriate him. The new generation of celebrity chefs struck him as sadly insecure, even unbalanced, using dreadful words and treating their underlings like dirt. He himself was kind to his chefs, and his kitchen was happy. He did not need to blanch their heads in boiling water to make sure he kept them.
Waterside Inn靠着白斑狗鱼蓉和他本人掌厨的顶级焦糖反烤苹果塔更加声名显赫(并且保持了它的米其林三星)。于是在那里，米歇尔能够让追求经典和老派在大庭广众之下为己所用。就餐区域的椅子裹上了厚厚的印花棉布垫。酒窖里的酒全是法国酒，因为他只对波尔多和勃艮第葡萄酒情有独钟——每年都会去波尔多品尝期酒，还在他位于圣特鲁佩斯附近的庄园里架起了属于自己的葡萄园。他对新式烹饪兴味索然：在他的菜单上，黄油无所不在、不可替代且不可或缺。他总是会对粗鲁的举止大为光火。他对新一代明星大厨的形象感到吃惊：他们可悲地缺乏安全感——甚至精神不稳定、说话粗俗、不把下属当人看。他自己则对手下的厨师很友好，他的厨房充满欢声笑语。他不需要采取极端手段留住厨师。
注：
1. 新式烹饪：法餐的一种现代做法，讲求新鲜、清淡，轻放作料，保持食品的原汁原味。
2. Waterside Inn餐厅内景（图片来自网络)
Had Britain really changed, then, since his arrival? He sometimes wondered. By 2020 London could boast three three-star Michelin restaurants—but Paris had ten. Britain now offered cuisines from all over the world, but too many new dishes were merely visual, picnic stuff that lacked depth. The best of British cooking was still the afternoon tea, with treacle tart and sponge cake and scones with jam and cream, which he and Albert both loved greedily and which had persuaded them, in the beginning, that there was hope to be found somewhere. But those peas, alas, were not yet right. They had to be fresh-shelled, to start with; cooked in butter, never water; and then, preferably, cut one by one in half before they could ever grace a plate.
那么，英国在他到来之后真的变了吗？他有时候会想这个问题。到2020年，伦敦可以夸口说有三家米其林三星餐厅——但是巴黎却坐拥十家。英国现如今已经供应全球各地的美味了，但是太多的新菜肴只是注重外表的野餐式餐饮，缺乏深度。英国烹饪的精华还属下午茶：蜜糖馅饼、海绵蛋糕和就着果酱和奶油的司康饼。他和艾伯特都极其钟爱这些，也让他们一开始就相信英国的烹饪还是有希望的。但是那些豆子，哎呀，还没达到完美呀。首先，它们得是新鲜剥好的，要在黄油而不是水里煮；然后呢，最好是一颗一颗地对半切，最后才能装盘。
翻译组：
Lee，爱骑行的妇女之友+Timberland粉
Lixia，女，爱爬山的健身小白，美食狂人
Mosy，绘本、演讲、戏剧英文教育践行者
校对组：
Qianna，追求专业的非英专，很讲逻辑，英伦摇滚迷
Nikolai，热爱想象的小双鱼，蒙特雷候补生，AKB49
Dave，实力校对，肌肉男大学教师，文学翻译+CATTI一笔二口
Rachel，学理工科，爱跳芭蕾，热爱文艺的非典型翻译（年年备战一口）
