【经济学人】红酒也赶时髦？|2017.04.27|总第893期

AT “Rawduck”, a restaurant in London’s trendy Hackney neighbourhood, clients crowd around communal tables under dim lights, inspecting a menu of delights such as charred purple sprouting broccoli, shaved yellow courgette and goat’s curd. Along with food, the venue offers classes in pickling vegetables and making kombucha (a Japanese fermented tea). The greatest emphasis is on the wine list, all of it billed as “natural” or organic. But on this front, though the venue strives for eccentricity, it is part of a much larger trend.

在“Rawduck”（在伦敦哈克尼附近的一家时髦的餐厅），昏暗的的灯光下，客人围坐在餐桌旁打量着菜单上的菜品，有烧花菜、小胡瓜和山羊乳等。餐厅还给顾客提供了腌制蔬菜和康普茶（日本的一种发酵茶）。最博人眼球的就该是葡萄酒列表了，所有酒都被称做是“天然的”或有机的。在此之前，餐厅想力追与众不同的风格，不设这些“天然的”葡萄酒，然而还是追随了大势所趋。

The craze for “natural” wine started in France in the 1990s, recalls Bertrand Celce, a wine blogger. A small group of bacchanalians started opening offbeat organic wine bars across Paris. Now the city boasts hundreds, with many others elsewhere in France. Since the mid-2000s they have spread across Europe and to parts of America. “Raw”, a London-based wine fair which started in 2012, has now opened in Berlin, Vienna and New York; this November, it will have its first show in Los Angeles.（读者试译句） Well-heeled restaurants such as Claridge’s in London have also started to stock the stuff, which is made not just in France but also in Italy, Austria, Slovakia and elsewhere.

葡萄酒博客写手Bertrand Celce回忆道：“天然”葡萄酒的热潮兴起于20世纪90年代，。一群狂热者在整个巴黎的范围内开起了这种新型的有机葡萄酒酒吧。现在巴黎已经有数百家这样的有机酒吧，法国的其他地方也开始出现这种类型的酒吧。从21世纪中期开始，有机葡萄酒风靡整个欧洲甚至到美国的。 （期待您的翻译，明天将会有针对这句话的长难句解析哟~） 一些有名的餐厅例如伦敦的Claridge’s餐厅已经开始囤货了，这些葡萄酒酒不仅法国有产而且也在意大利，澳大利亚，斯洛伐克等地方也有。

Wines labelled “organic” must abide by European Union standards to be certified. “Natural” wines are even fussier: they are grown and harvested organically, but have no additives at all. (“Organic” wine can have up to 50, such as dry yeast or tannins, sniff natural oenophiles.) The “natural” designation, however, is completely unregulated. Some natural winemakers claim that herbal tea protects their vines against diseases. Most crush their grapes with their bare feet, because that is how it was done in the good old days; others keep wine in amphorae. A few are influenced by the “biodynamic” teachings of Rudolf Steiner, an Austrian who thought that astrological forces influence crops. Others simply like the taste, which ranges from cider-like juice to something resembling conventional wine, but with a trendier label and a bigger price tag.

标有“有机”的红酒必须要达到欧盟的相关标准才能获得对应资质。而“天然”的红酒就更加讲究了：整个播种培育收获的环境都是有机并且不含任何添加物。（“有机”红酒内部含有多达50位干酵母和丹宁酸之类的品酒家）然而，“天然”红酒的设计是非常规的。一些天然红酒生产商宣称他们的药茶能够保护葡萄藤使其免受疾病的困扰。大部分葡萄都因为根部没有保护措施而被疾病毁掉了，正如以前经历的那些情况一样了；其他的生产商把红酒保存在双耳罐中。一小部分人是受到了Rudolf Steiner--一个认为通过占星术能影响作物生长的奥地利人的所谓“生物动力学”知识的影响。而其他的人只是喜欢这种味道罢了，摇摆于像是苹果汁或者传统红酒之类的东西之间的味道，但是有着更时髦的标签和更昂贵的价格。

Some of this mirrors the fads for craft beer and new kinds of gin, says Jancis Robinson, a wine writer. Young people, especially hip urban types who tend to prefer gluten-free and organic food, are particularly keen. According to a survey in 2015 from Nielsen, a research firm, nearly two-thirds of those aged between 21 and 34 who drink wine several times a year said they were interested in natural wine, compared with only a minority of those over 44. “The young French want to be surprised,” says Sylvie Augereau, a writer and winemaker in the Loire Valley. “Old people want to have the same taste every year,” she sighs.

葡萄酒作家Jancis Robinson说这些都见证了精酿酒和新品种的松子酒的风靡。青睐于无机蛋白和有机食物的年轻人，特别是时髦的都市年轻人对那些就尤其狂热。根据研究公司Nielsen2015年的一份调查显示，相比于年龄超过44岁的人来说，有将2/3的21-34岁的人说他们更倾向于天然发酵葡萄酒，他们都会一年喝几次葡萄酒。“法国年轻人想要惊喜”，LoireValley的一个作家兼酿酒师SylvieAugereau说道，“但老年人每年却都想要一样的味道。”

An anti-establishment mood has taken root in Europe’s vineyards. The rebels may be a small minority, but they are affecting the rest of the industry: older winemakers are playing around with the “natural” techniques, says Ms Robinson, blurring the boundary between establishment and upstart. As with insurgent politics, so too with plonk.

反新企业的情绪在欧洲葡萄园已经扎根。反对者只是少数，但是他们影响了其他的葡萄酒工业：老酿酒师摆弄着天然工艺，Robinson说，很难区分老企业和新企业。政治叛乱也会伴随着葡萄酒产生。

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