几年前占据街头的“爆款”是各种小白鞋，无论是沦为街鞋的绿标 Stan Smith，还是金色烫字的 Common Projects都证明：2014 到 2016 年，是属于小白鞋的高光时刻。各路时装精都会告诉你：简单、百搭的小白鞋是长红单品，永不过时。但一波打脸事实很快到来，“经典不过时”这种描述都是骗人的，时尚潮流根本就是反复无常的花蝴蝶。哼！2017年，运动鞋虽然还没退潮，但居然悄咪咪地变丑了。从街拍潮咖到各国明星，丑遍大江南北的休闲运动鞋真的是红得让人咋舌，可以称这是一种反时尚，也可以说这种趋势就是一种微型时尚。如何鉴定这样一双“丑跑鞋”？它们一般有这样的共同点：楦头很宽的慢跑鞋鞋型 ；鞋面有着拼接等复杂设计；气垫超级无敌厚。存在感很强，看起来像是下一秒就会咔咔变身的跑鞋机器人，不少还会配上超大 logo。巴黎世家的设计师Demna Gvasalia曾就说过，这样的鞋子很丑，这就是我们喜欢它的原因。时尚圈刮起的这股丑鞋妖风，穿好了算你赢好吗？但我花了大把钞票穿上这些丑鞋，感觉潮爆了好吗！无论是你拥抱它们，还是坚决“丑拒”，这些丑丑的运动鞋也许证明我们对多样性和个性的强烈追求已然到了一个走火入魔的地步。而穿在街头小青年脚上的它们仿佛也是一种宣言：我就喜欢你看不惯我，但依然到处要见到我的样子。
世界上最丑的运动鞋都在这篇文章里
作者：
LUKE LEITCH
译者：朱星汉
校对：泮海伦
导读笔记&阅读推荐：朱小钊
策划： 泮海伦 朱小钊
Luke Leitch asks how the humble gym shoe became a fashion trophy
运动鞋如何成为时尚界的宠儿
本文选自 1843 | 取经号原创翻译
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It’s funny how sneakers became the male corsage of contemporary culture,” observed American designer Rick Owens immediately after his menswear show in January. Owens’ fashions often turn out to be
prophetic
– his designs seem outlandish at their release but slowly seep into wider usage – and here once more he has spotted an emerging truth. Forget the brogue, the derby, the desert boot and the Oxford; consign the stiletto, slingback and sandal to oblivion.
Trainer
s are the plumage of the 21st century. Rubber-soled, comfortable shoes, first conceived for sport, have scaled the
pinnacle
of high fashion.
“运动鞋居然成为当今文化中男性时尚的标志，实在是有趣”，Rick Owens（设计师，创有同名品牌Rick Owens）在其一月份的男装秀谢幕后，说了这样一句话。Owens的时装秀常常
预示着
风潮，虽然乍一看风格古怪，却总能成为流行元素，逐渐渗透到其他领域。这里他又说对了，布洛克鞋、德比鞋、牛津鞋、沙漠靴都忘了吧，也记得把细高跟鞋、露跟鞋、凉鞋一道抛之脑后，
运动鞋
才是本世纪的宠儿，这种橡胶底鞋为运动而生，脚感舒适，现在已成为高端时尚的
顶级
单品。
Prophetic
[prə'fet.ɪk] adj. saying correctly what will happen in the future 预言的，预示的
Trainer
['treɪ.nər] n. a type of light comfortable shoe that is suitable for playing sport 运动鞋
Pinnacle
['pɪn.ə.kl] n. the most successful or admired part of a system or achievement 极点；顶点，顶峰
It may seem strange for so many of us to don sports shoes when we are fatter and more
sedentary
than ever. Yet this is no fad. Sales of trainers are rising far faster than the
footwear
market as a whole. And the decoupling of running shoes and running has been mirrored by the manufacturers too – cool trainers are no longer the preserve of sporting specialists alone. They are now a high-falutin’ Veblen good: as the price has gone up, so has demand.
久坐
人士和肥胖人士却穿起了运动鞋，在许多人看来，不免有些奇怪，但运动鞋流行起来不是一时的风尚，运动鞋的销量增长远超过整个
鞋类
行业的销量增长，运动鞋生产商也在改变跑鞋的样式，跑鞋和跑步开始割裂开来。炫酷的运动鞋不再是专业运动员的专属，而成为了华而不实的韦伯伦商品——价格增长，需求随之增长。
译注：韦伯伦商品，又称炫耀财，是经济学上用以描述一种商品，其特色是商品需求与商品价格成正向关系，而非正常需求法则的反向关系。这种商品能满足人类的虚荣心，是财富与地位的炫耀，故称为炫耀性消费。此名词源于其概念提出者Thorstein Veblen。
Sedentary
['sed.ən.tri] adj. involving little exercise or physical activity 缺乏运动的，少活动的
Footwear
['fʊt.weər] n. shoes, boots or any other outer covering for the human foot 鞋类
Designers have introduced scarcity to the formula. French fashion brand Balenciaga makes small numbers of a shoe called the Triple S, a prescuffed, ornate bulky item whose accentuated, moulded heel and panelled upper shoe sparked a popular trend for “ugly” trainers when they first went on sale in spring 2017. The price tag is £600, yet so many customers preorder them that even Selfridges department store, which has the largest footwear section in the world, has never managed to stock a pair of Triple S’s on its shelves.
设计师们将一些稀有的设计元素转化为营销模式，法国时尚品牌巴黎世家推出限量版的鞋款Triple S，采用做旧工艺、大胆的色彩搭配，鞋体庞大，带有夸张的成型鞋跟以及拼接鞋面。2017年春季Triple S首次发售，便掀起一股以“丑”为美的流行风尚。尽管售价高达600英镑，
但预订仍然络绎不绝，就连拥有最大鞋类柜台的Selfridges都抢售一空，货架上空空如也。
“Ugly” is suddenly attractive. Since running shoes are now ubiquitous, those who yearn to stand out from the crowd are opting for extreme designs. Not all are as tractor-like as the Triple S. The B22 by Dior Homme blends a vogueish,
chunky
sole with a relatively sleek, silhouetted upper – a shoe for more tasteful sneaker peacocks. Years in the making, the Louis Vuitton Archlight by Nicolas Ghesquière features a soaring,
accentuate
d gothic arch instep and is easily the prettiest extreme trainer out there. The RRP is $1,050.
“丑”突然间风靡起来，现在穿运动鞋的人遍地都是，一些人为了标新立异，穿起了设计风格极端的鞋子。但也不是所有的设计都像Triple S一样看起来像俩笨重的拖拉机。Dior Homme B22融合了时髦、
厚重的
鞋底和流线型轮廓的鞋帮，专为品味更高的运动鞋狂魔设计。Nicolas Ghesquière用数年时间设计的路易威登的Arclight具有
醒目的
哥特式的拱形足弓，绝对是那些另类鞋款中最好看的一双，建议零售价为1050美元。
Chunky
['tʃʌŋ.ki] adj. describes clothes that are thick and heavy, or jewellery made of large pieces （衣服）厚实的，厚重的；（首饰）沉甸甸的
Accentuate
[ək'sen.tju.eɪt] v. to emphasize a particular feature of something or to make something more noticeable 着重，强调；使明显，使突出
Four figures? The plimsoll, a basic pump with a vulcanised rubber sole, has come a long way since it was invented in Britain in the 1860s, to be worn by the Victorian middle classes on the beach. Versions of this shoe are still available for under £2.
4位数的价格让你大跌眼镜？胶底帆布鞋是18世纪60年代在英国发明的，是基础的平底鞋加以硫化后的橡胶大底构成的，经历过诸多演变。维多利亚时代的中产阶级就穿着这种鞋子在海滩上漫步，现在仍能以低于2英镑的价钱买到它。
A number of other early
incarnation
s retain a strong presence too. Keds, which debuted in 1916 in Connecticut, were the first mass-market sneaker (so called because the rubber soles allowed the wearer to sneak around without being heard). In 1917 a Massachusetts shoemaker named Marquis Mills Converse developed a high-topped shoe for basketball players. Called the All-Star, this cheap, flexible and versatile boot was endorsed by ball player Chuck Taylor in 1923 and became the Model T Ford of trainers – though unlike the Model T, it is still in wide use today. Later on, adidas (founded in Germany in 1949) and Nike (founded in America in 1964) were to the development of the trainer what the USSR and USA were to the space race, pushing both performance and comfort.
一些
早期版本的
胶底帆布鞋依旧很有市场，1916年在康涅狄格州创立的Keds是第一家生产面向大众的胶底运动鞋（橡胶底的鞋子能让你神出鬼没不留脚步声）的厂家。一年后，马塞诸塞州生产商Marquis Mills Converse为篮球运动员开发了一款高帮帆布鞋，即匡威All-Star帆布鞋。著名篮球运动员查克泰勒在1923年代言的All-Star鞋款便宜、柔韧性好、适合于多种场合，成为了运动鞋界的福特T型车，虽然T型车已经停产了，但All-Star依然有许多人穿。后来阿迪达斯（1949年创立于德国）和耐克（1964年创立于美国）在运动鞋上的研发历程就像是苏联和美国在太空竞赛中的对弈，使运动鞋的舒适性和功能性均得到了提高。
Incarnation
[ˌɪn.kɑ:'neɪ.ʃən] n. an incarnation is an instance of being alive on earth in a particular form. Some religions believe that people have several incarnations in different forms.(在世间的)化身，前身
It took a century for trainers to move from functional shoes to street wear. Basketball was the game that really did that, writes Bobbito Garcia in his book “Where’d You Get Those?”. In the 1960s many players took pride in wearing the latest on-court models off court too. The shoes seeped further into popular culture in the 1980s when hip-hop artists, many of them emerging from the same New York neighbourhoods as the basketball-crazy sneaker-heads, gave trainers more street cred.
运动鞋花了一个世纪，才从功能性领域进入街头领域。Bobbito Garcia在《从何而来》一书中提到，篮球也和运动鞋一样，进入到了街头。上个世纪60年代，许多篮球运动员去哪都穿着最新款的球鞋，颇为得意。20年后，嘻哈艺术家给篮球鞋赋予了更多街头文化，这些艺术家许多都是篮球迷、运动鞋收藏家，都来自于纽约市的某些街区。
译注：美国 DJ、作家、街球运动员 Bobbito Garcia 于 2003 年曾经出版一本名为《Where’d You Get Those?: New York City’s Sneaker Culture 1960-1987》的书籍，讲述纽约市在 1960 年代至 1980 年代的球鞋文化，内容相当详细，甚至已经被 Carnegie Mellon University 作为 Sneakerology 101 的教科书。
As incremental technological advances made sports shoes progressively more comfortable – and so more appealing – the decline in deference, formality and hard boundaries between work and leisure also helped to usher in the age of the workaday trainer. Yet for a long time the déclassé trainer presented a problem for luxury labels, standing for everything that high fashion was not: cheap, ubiquitous, durable, functional. Most brands steered clear, with scant few exceptions such as Gucci’s tennis pump in 1984 and Prada’s sailing shoe in 1996.
随着科技进步，运动鞋脚感越来越舒适，也更美观了。随着人们越来越不重视形式，放开一些规矩，以及工作和休闲也变得不那么泾渭分明，于是可在工作场合穿着的运动鞋诞生了。但很长一段时间以来，低端的运动鞋往往和奢侈品不沾边，带有一些与高端时尚背道而驰的特征：便宜、人手一双、耐用、功能性强。大多数奢侈品牌都对运动鞋避之不及，只有少数例外：Gucci于1984年推出的tennis pump以及Prada于1996年推出的sailing shoe.
That began to change after adidas approached two fashion designers – Yohji Yamamoto in 2001 and Jeremy Scott in 2002 – to produce editions of their designs. Soon Lanvin, a Paris fashion house, was showing patent-toed men’s trainers on its catwalk, and in 2009 Louis Vuitton released a new collection co-designed by hip-hop artist Kanye West. Some cost over $1,000 – they sold out immediately.
后来，阿迪达斯分别于2001年以及2002年邀请到时尚设计师山本耀司和杰瑞米·斯科特来设计特别款，这种格局就发生了变化。很快，时尚品牌朗雯就在T台上展示了持有专利的男款运动鞋。2009年，路易威登推出了和嘻哈艺术家坎耶·维斯特联名设计的系列鞋款，有些售价高达1000美元，很快便销售一空。
Fast forward, and the fashion twist of this decade is that, though functional in appearance, many designers now give absolutely no thought to the performance of their shoes. The first sign of the aspirationally “ugly” sneaker was adidas’s Ozweego, a “running inspired” shoe designed in collaboration with designer Raf Simons in 2013 – shortly before he grafted a moulded sneaker sole to a patent-leather, high-heel pump in his day job as creative director of Christian Dior. At the time the Ozweego was considered as outlandish as the Dior pump. But it prefaced the extreme fashion sneaker – exemplified by the Balenciaga style – that has since become prevalent.
回顾一下最近十年来时尚的发展，虽然运动鞋本属于功能性鞋款，但许多设计师根本不会去考虑运动鞋的运动性能。以“丑”为美的运动鞋开始崭露头角是在2013年，阿迪达斯推出了和设计师Raf Simons联合操刀的Ozweego，旨在“唤醒你奔跑的激情”。不久之后，担任Dior创意总监的Raf Simons，就将成型运动鞋底嫁接到了漆皮高跟的无带女鞋上。Dior的pump获得的评价和Ozweego差不多：怪异至极。但是这两款鞋子开启了不断向怪异风格靠拢的风尚——比如巴黎世家这种风格。
So the class-of-2018 fashion trainer is chunky, ugly and big. Can the trend last, or will the trainer soon flex in a fresh direction? Of course it will. In January Rick Owens unveiled a new,
puritan
design of rubber shoe, unadorned save for a few nylon tufts. “I wanted them to be really generic. Almost Kmart,” he said, “I’m a little tired of bombastic sneakers.” Perhaps 2019 will be the year of the $1,000 Keds
2018年度最潮的运动鞋绝对是又厚又大又丑，这股风潮能持续下去吗？还是说很快会被新的风潮取代？取代当然是大势所趋，一月份时Rick Owens推出了一款新的
清教徒式的
